hitchcock andeeson



(No Model.)

I. H. ANDERSON. V

HAT LINING. No. 301,199. Patented July 1, 1884.

N, PETERS. Phulwhlhugnpher, Washingtun, u.c.

lUNrTEn STaTEs FORD. HITOHGOOK ANDERSON, OF DANBURY, ONEHALF TO ALBERTANDERSON,

PaTEnT @TETCE.

CONNECTICUT, nssienon or or SAME PLACE.

HAT-MINING.

SPEClEFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 301,199, dated July1,}884.

Application filed March 18, 1884. (No model.)

To all whom, it may concern.-

Be it known that I, FORDYOE'HITOHOOOK ANDERSON, of Danbury, in thecounty of Fairfield and State of Connecticut, have invented certainImprovementsin I-Iat-Linings,of which the following is a specification.

The aim of my invention is to produce hat linings at a cost less than ispossible under the methods of construction commonlypracticed,

IO to avoid handling the material to the extent which is now necessaryin order to prevent injury to the surface of delicate fabrics, and

to produce linings which may be applied by unskilled labor to hats ofdifferent sizes.

To this end it consists, essentially, in a lin-' ing composed of acontinuous flat sheet having the edges folded or plaited in order togive it the proper form to fit within the hat; also,

in a blank embossed or broken at the center by means of a die or itsequivalent, and plaited or folded at the edges without being cut, themargin of the embossed portion serving as a guide by which to properlyfold or plait the edges.

It further consists in the blank having a plaited portion glued orotherwise attached permanently to a stiffening-sheet on the rear face.

It further consists in the lining folded as above, with thestiffening-piece extended from front to rear, in order to sustain thesame more firmly in position.

. Herctofore hatlinings have been variously constructed. The most commonmode of con- 5 struction was to form an oval or elliptical sheet ofsmall size stiffenedon the back, commonly designated the tip of the.hat,and to stitch to the edge of this tip the gathered edges of the bodyportion already described. Another method was to form the lining of anumber of pieces cut ofsuch forms and stitched together-at the edges insuch manner as to give the lining a form corresponding with the interiorof the hat, or substantially so. Still 5 another method was to paste thelining mate rial to a body of buckraln, or equivalent stiffening, andthen subject the same to a powerful pressure between corrugated crimpingdies, heat and. moisture being at the same time applied in order toeffect the proper stretch- 5o ing and melding of the material.

The foregoing methods were objectionable on account of their expense, ofthe material becoming soiled and injured by the great amount of handlingto which it was necessarily subjected, because of the danger of thefabric being ruptured in the case of stretch ing; because, also, liningsadapted for hats of one size could not be applied to those of adifferent size, and because highly-skilled laher was required both forthe manufacture and insertion of the linings.

' Referring to the accompanying drawings, Figure 1 represents a faceview of my lining as it appears previous to being folded for 111- 6 5sertion. Fig. 2 is a cross section of the same on the line a? w. 3 is aperspective View of the lining as it appears when ready for in sertion.Fig. l is a cross-section of the same. Fig. 5 is a face view showing thelining with the stiffening material extended from end to end. Fig. 6 isa face view of the lining in one of its forms in a flat or unfoldedcondition.

In proceeding to construct my lining, Ifirst provide a flat sheet, A, ofany suitable mate- 7 5 rial, and of an elliptical or substantiallyelliptical form. The center of this sheet I subject to the action ofembossing-dies, or equivalent devices, which will operate thereon insuch a manner as to raise a fiat elliptical surface, a, therein,breaking down, creasing, or bending the fiber at the edges of thisportion in such manner that it forms a guide from which to fold or plaitthe edges, as hereinafter described.

hen the lining is constructed of light ma- 8 terial, as is usually thecase, I apply to the back of the sheet, previous to the embossingoperation, a sheet of paper, cardboard, or equivalent stiffeningmaterial, B, which is glued or cemented firmly thereto, either previousto 0 or during the embossing action. The stiffening thus applied servesto retain the central portion of the blank in a flat form,while leavingthe edges in their natural pliable condition, that they may be properlyfolded.

Having provided the blank, as above,I next plait or fold the edges insuch manner as to contract the margin of the sheet and give the same aconcave or cup-like form, corresponding, substantially,with the interiorof the hatbody, as represented in Fig. 3. It is to be observed thatthese folded or plaited edges are not cut, but that the form is securedwholly by lapping the material upon itself. After being thus formed thelining may be inserted into the hat and confined in position by turningthe ordinary sweat-band upward over the lower edge of the lining in theordinary manner, and this without the necessity of previously stitching,gluing, or otherwise securing the folded edges. 1

The blanksmay be sold and shipped in the flat form and folded into shapeby the consumer at the time of the application to .the hats, theoperation being quickly and readily performed by children or otherinexpensive labor. If, however, it'is desired to manufacture the liningsin form for immediate insertion, the plaited edges may have a strip ofpaper or equivalent material glued to the outer surface, as representedin Fig. 4. This strip, which will serve to retain them in form, may bereadily broken, in order to admit of the edges being expanded orcontracted to conform to hats of different sizes In certain cases it isdesirable to make the I linings of exceedingly light or thin materialrepresented in Fig. 5,

incapable of supporting itself, in which event I propose to continue thestiffening material B from one side of the lining to the other, as Thestiffening thus ap fiat blanks may be composed of two, three, or

more sections of suitable form united at their 40 edges to form a flatsheet, as represented in Fig. 6. The edges may be united by stitching;but a more convenient plan is to unite them by means ofa thin sheet ofrubber pressed upon the edges with a hot iron, whereby it is caused toadhere firmly thereto. The sectional blank thus formed will be plaitedinthe edges,

sheet provided with the central stiffening-- sheet, the embossed centralportion, and the plaited edges, substantially as described.

5. Ahat-lining consisting of a continuous sheet having the plaited edgesand the stiffen ing applied centrally thereto and extending from oneedge to the other.

6. Ahat-lining consisting of a continuous sheet having the embossedcenter, the uncut plaited edges, and the retaining-strip appliedexternally thereto.

, FORD. HITGHCOGK ANDERSON.

WVitnesses:

J OHN T. ARMs, WV. H. SHIPLEY.

invention, what

